Nuevo tango (new tango) began to develop over twenty years ago with the adoption of different musical elements into the traditional orchestra-based tango music. Hints of jazz and classical were gradually introduced and at the same time dancers began to infuse the traditional dance steps with a combination of new styles including salsa and swing.

Nowadays you can catch all types of milongas in Buenos Aires where people dance to anything from electro tango to Elvis. Acoustic and electronic blend, dancing styles mesh and milongas are held in living rooms however even with new, alternative tango it is still not a case of ‘anything goes’. Before attempting to dance at a milonga make sure you know at least some of the basic steps, as the dance is still taken seriously and tradition prevails that those dancing in public should be good enough to warrant it.

Don’t let this put you off though as alternative tango nights are a great deal of fun and show a different side to this still dynamic dance that has been somewhat homogenized by poorer tourist shows.

On Friday nights in San Telmo, the humble Club La Independencia (Avenida Independencia 572) hosts an alternative tango night, Otros Buenos Aires (www.otrosbuenosaires.com). Here you can expect to see some of the city’s hot young dancers working themselves around the floor to anything from contemporary new tango to old jazz classics. Also recommended for a spot of new tango is Soho Tango (Cabrera 4849), which usually fills up with a young crowd, or La Catedral (Sarmiento 4006) for some alternative nights.

Another way to experience alternative tango if you aren’t quite ready to put on your dancing shoes is through the music. Electro tango is a widening genre and outfits including Gotan Project and Tanghetto are projecting it onto the international music scene. While groups such as Ultratango still regularly play in BA.

For listings of special alternative tango events keep your eye open for the bi-monthly Time Out Buenos Aires magazine and bi-lingual website www.whatsupbuenosaires.com

Whether you want to engage your feet or your ears, alternative tango offers you a different way into the nation’s cultural blood stream.

Image by zabara_tango

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Anuva Wines

This is a great option for an affordable wine tasting of wines from all over Argentina. Anuva Wines is also a wine club and is the only company we know that affordably ships wine to the U.S. They host wine tastings in their Las Canitas tasting room and specializes in wines from boutique wineries that are largely only available in Argentina. The tastings are quintessentially Argentine with a focus on Malbec, Torrontés and Bonarda. The 40 u$d price is great for a tasting with 5 wines, 5 specific food pairings, a comprehensive presentation of the wines, Argentine terroir, history, local restaurant and sight seeing recommendations and refills on the wines you like. Anuva also offers hotel delivery, apartment delivery, handy reusable wine bags, and its wine club and shipping service. Anuva accepts requests for special tastings and can accommodate large groups is enough advance notice is given.

Casa Coupage

Casa Coupage offers one of the most unique wine / dinner experience in Buenos Aires. While not strictly wine tasting, it is definitely worth checking out. The venue doubles as the home of the owners, whose concept is to create a welcoming space, in which visitors can focus on their individual sensory experience and develop their palates through blind tastings. Their Bistro Innovacion happens on Thursday and Friday evenings by reservation only, and includes a generous seasonal menu – food is an integral part of Argentine wine drinking culture. Alternatively, you can arrange for a private tasting session for two to twenty people. In either set-up, the owners communicate wines in an incredibly dynamic and personal way that is truly special and authentically Argentine.

Terroir

This upscale vinoteca in Palermo, is a good option if you are serious about wine and are willing to invest time and money in a tasting. The slightly pretentious venue caters towards an upper class cliental and has a portfolio consisting of mainly high-end wines. Consequently, if you are budget minded you may find the vast cellar here a bit limited, not to mention intimidating. Tastings start at around AR$250 per person and a standard tasting for a group of around eight people will set you back between AR$450-500. The owner puts careful effort into tailoring the tasting to your preferences, but only as long as you have done your research beforehand and have given serious thought to the kinds of wine you want to try.

Winery

This vinoteca (wine shop)/resto-bar chain, offers wine tasting at three of their locations: Puerto Madero, Avenida Alem, and Avenida Libertador. For AR$98 you can enjoy a sampling of five AR$50-$70 bottles of wine (four red, one white), as well as an assortment of tapas. Winery is ideal if you enjoy drinking without chatting, as you are left largely on your own to taste wines with simply a sheet of paper on which you can mark your impressions. There is an option, however, to hire an in-house sommelier to guide your session if you prefer a more interactive experience.

Club 647

Club 647 is your best bet for a ‘walk-in’ tasting as well as for excellent wine-food pairing. One of the best new restaurants in Buenos Aires, Club 647 has put much thought into creating a wine menu that complements their amazing dishes. They have designed an extremely user-friendly and clever wine list that is categorized by character as opposed to more conventional varietal or regional groupings. For example, whites are dived in into dynamic sub-categories such as ‘fruity with medium suppleness,’ ‘elegant and supple with yeast notes,’ and ‘fresh, young and light bodied.’ Tailored tasting flights include 4-5 wines and cost between AR$100-$150.

Gran Bar Danzon

Buenos Aires’ only definitive wine bar, Gran Danzon is another solid alternative if you do not have time to organize or book a tasting in advance. Though the bar does not offer tasting flights, it has the most extensive ‘by the glass’ menu of wines to be found in Buenos Aires, from which you can create your own ‘tasting.’ Prices range from $8-$16 per glass for white wines and $10-$32 for reds.

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The biggest difference between the Palermo store and the downtown CBC flagship is space; lot’s of it. The new CBC is set up like a traditional old-style Buenos Aires house. You walk in to a small open-air patio with a large first-floor dining area and service counter, as well as exterior stairs leading to an open-air 2nd floor terrace. To me, the terrace is the big selling point. It’s partly covered, with a fully functional bar and large wooden octagonal picnic tables. Though now it serves as a dining/drinking area, it certainly lends itself to the potential for large group parties, drink-ups, or even live music. The space is spectacular, and most importantly it’s quiet, which is rare in Buenos Aires.

The menu is pretty much the same as you’d find in the downtown store. It’s pretty simple: a) pick either tacos, a salad, or a burrito. b) pick your chips and drink combo. c) pick your fillings, sauces, and garnishes. At first glance the prices seem a little high, however if you look at the volume of food, as well as the diversity and quality of ingredients, you definitely get your money’s worth. Comparatively speaking it’s about the same price as Burger King combos, but with REAL food, and more importantly, beer. They are also pushing a new desert item on the menu, however, by the time you’ve finished one of their burrito combos, the thought of eating anything more is tough for even the hungriest guest.

Besides the food and space, another thing you immediately notice is the attention to detail and customer service. The place is sparkling clean, the service is fast, and if there’s any problem with your order, it’s fixed without even a second glance. There’s also a very personal feel to how the staff interacts with their clientele. If you’ve eaten there, chances are you met one of the owners and didn’t even realize it. One of them is always on site, and they usually make it a point to introduce themselves, ask you about the food, shake your hand, or even sit down with you for a beer.

This place is definitely worth checking out, even if you’re just in town for a few days. It’s definitely a must-see for both locals and foreigners. My favorite CBC combo is the Tijuanamama with guacamole nachos and a Corona ($31 Pesos Arg.).

The CBC Palermo is located at Godoy Cruz 1781, at the corner of Honduras. For more info, check out their website at www.californiaburritoco.com/

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The word “Menesunda” comes from the tango slang meaning fusion, mix or even disorder.

Recently, a new surge of energy has been injected into La Menesunda by the new owners, an enthusiastic couple, Damián and Celina.

The hostel is bright and colorful with luscious green plants and candles dotted around along with comfortable seating. There is a mixture of spacious private rooms and dormitories. A four person and 2 six person dorms are available and some private rooms are en-suite. The shared bathrooms are particularly nice as they are roomy and well maintained. Each is fitted with a toilet, shower and sink and offers complete privacy to the individual. One is equipped with a hairdryer.
Dorm rooms start at AR$37 and private rooms at AR$85. Generous discounts are given to long term residents, students and guests attending conferences.

There is also a large fully equipped kitchen with two fridges and a freezer to store your food along with a microwave. Soft drinks, wine and beer are also sold on site.

Breakfast is included in the price of your stay and is served from 8 am to 11am. It includes coffee, a variety of tea, bread rolls, a mixture of jam and the obligatory dulce de leche. At the weekend there is also a delicious selection of facturas- Argentine pastries.

La Menesunda´s guests are a mixture of long term residents, backpackers, romantic couples and occasional families. It is not uncommon for guests to take it upon themselves to share their national dishes by cooking for each other. You will discover that language is no barrier to making friends and it is these moments that will make your stay memorable.

Formerly a conventillo in the 1920s, a specific type of housing where immigrants from different cultures cohabited, the building typically has a large central courtyard. This area still continues to be used as a communal space today, where mate is shared and guests gather round to listen to the latest resident guitar player. In true Argentine style, there is also a barbeque on the first floor to cook those delicious asados.

La Menesunda is a sociable hostel but without the noise and sleepless nights. It is tranquilo with a comfortable living room for chilling and a good sized satellite TV and DVD player. There is also a good selection of international films available to watch free of charge.

Peace and quiet is enforced by the friendly receptionist on duty from midnight onwards on weekdays and 2 am at the weekend. The reception is 24 hours. The hostel´s staff are all multi-lingual with at least a knowledge of English and Portugese. As well as being helpful they are also very security conscious. Watch out, La Menesunda is indeed a hostel with buena onda and once you check in you may never want to leave!

Facilities

Disabled access
Computer with internet, wi-fi
Laundry AR$10 per bag
Room Cleaning Service
Currency Exchange
Transfers
Luggage Storage (Free of Charge)
Tour Bookings

Useful Transport Links

Subte E: 15 minutes to the centre and San telmo
Bus 126: 20 minutes to San Telmo
Bus 53: 45 minutes to El Caminito, La Boca
Bus 86: to La Boca and Ezeiza Internacional Airport
Subte Combination E and D: Palermo and Belgrano
Subte Combination E and C: Retiro (Buenos Aires bus and train terminal)
Bus 128: Palermo
Bus 160: Palermo

LA Menesunda Hostel
742 Boedo- Buenos Aires

54 11 49570946
www.lamenesundahostel.com.ar

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La Puerta Roja is recognized only by its red door, as it is not signposted. It is reminiscent of  a sixth form college common room with poor lighting, shabby walls, worn leather seating and a pool table. Yet still it is a comfortable and cool place to hang out.
It offers a large range of spirits and a small selection of wine and beers. Pizzas and sandwiches are also served. Despite its inconspicuousness it attracts a mixture of locals and travelers. Large crowds from hostels come regularly as part of  “the buenos aires pub crawl” to invade the joint.

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Before the collapse Buenos Aires was one of the most expensive cities in the world, but today you can take a taxi across town or eat a fantastic steak dinner for about U.S. $10. This is despite the high inflation rates that have plagued the country since 2001. The government claims a rate of 12%, and the actual rate is probably several percent higher. Nevertheless, Buenos Aires is still considered an excellent place to live, especially for expats, thanks to its high level of internal development and low cost of living.

Buenos Aires is especially attractive to residents who earn an income in Dollars, Euros or Pounds. Monthly food costs in Buenos Aires average around $130 U.S. Dollars and things like soap, garbage bags, shampoo, toothpaste and other necessities average $20. Transportation costs run about $26 and a cell phone or a fixed line is about $12, not including long distance calls. Entertainment costs average around $265, which includes things like wine at $8 to $20 a bottle. Restaurants entrées are in the $5 to $20 range. A movie is around $5, and a decent apartment rents for $350. Electricity, Internet and cable costs average $70 per month. At the current rate of inflation, you can enjoy a comfortable life in Argentina for around U.S. $900 a month or less, depending on the city.

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Perfect for the winter season, a submarino is a cup of steamed milk traditionally served with a stick of dark chocolate. In some cafes white chocolate is also offered. On occasion the chocolate is already melting in the cup when it is served other times the pleasure of plunging the chocolate bar is all yours. A submarino is a special kind of hot chocolate!

Las Violetas

If you want to indulge yourself Las Violetas is the place to be. With magnificent stained glass windows, uniformed waiters and numerous fresh plants in hanging baskets this traditional Buenos Aires Café oozes style.

A submarino at Las Violetas is served with a masita (a miniature cake) and a small glass of carbonated water. The chocolate bar is presented separately to the steamed milk-remember it is not to be eaten but dunked. Note that the price of regular hot drinks rise slightly after 16:00 on Saturdays, Sundays and on public holidays.

An exciting menu of coffee and liquor combinations as well as champagne is also offered along with light bites.

There is also a mouth watering selection of cakes and sweets on display in the substantial confiterie section of the café. It is like a permanent Christmas.

There is ample seating but now and then you will still see a queue forming outside because of its popularity. A trip to Las Violetas is a definite treat.

Las Violetas
Av. Rivadavia 3899 (esq. Medrano)
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: 49587387/88

Opening Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6-1am
Friday and Saturday 24hrs

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Fernet con Coca is an Argentinian combo, typically 30% Fernet and 70% coke served with ice. It can also be drunk with soda water and is particularly popular in Cordoba and Buenos Aires, whereas in Italy it is drunk neat and does not enjoy the same success.

Fernet con Coca replaces the champagne at weddings and other celebratory events but is not only reserved for special occasions or the elite. In Argentina, it can always be Fernet 0`clock.

Although adored by Argentinians, when it comes to foreigners Fernet is like marmite (a British bread spread made of yeast) “you either love it or hate it”. This is due to its distinctly strong bitter medicinal flavour. It has been likened to Jagermeister.

Fernet is an unattractive dark  brown colour and is made from a mixture of numerous herbs and spices. It has a thickish consistency. However, its precise ingredients still remain the secret of the Fratelli Branca Distillery.

With a 45% alcohol content, if not taken with caution Fernet could lead to a potentially lethal hangover. In small doses it is believed to relieve digestive problems.

In supermarkets a bottle of Fernet-Branca is sold approximately for AR$30 but be warned there are many cheap imitations which do not compare in quality to Fernet-Branca and will leave you worse for wear, more than the real McCoy. Recommended alternative brands are Fernet Martini, Fernet Rama and Ferner Ramazotti. Note that when asking for a Fernet in a bar it usually refers to the Branca brand.

Fernet can be found in any bar or cafe. Why not steer away from the tourist haunts of San Telmo and Palermo and enjoy a refreshing glass of Fernet Con Coca in Cafe Margot? Located in the quiet neigbourhood of Boedo, close to San Telmo, Cafe Margot has a rustic decor with saucisson hanging from the ceiling and wooden seating. It is popular with the locals and there are regular art displays. A large variety of sandwiches are served along with other snacks and main meals. The smoking section is completely separate from the non smoking area so you do not need to fear for your lungs only your liver!

Cafe Margot
Avenida Boedo 857
Boedo

Opening Times: Daily from 7am to 2am

How to Get There: Subte Line E Boedo Station

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A licuado is a fruit shake.

It is a typical, non-alcoholic, Latin American beverage. This refreshing and nutritious drink is made by blending fruit and ice with either water or milk, the latter option being slightly more expensive. The most common flavors are banana, strawberry and peach. When ordering, it’s important to specify if you do not wish to have sugar added. Also, depending on the season, canned fruits may be used. Argentineans generally drink licuados at breakfast or in la merienda which is between 17:00 and 20:00 as a snack.

One can enjoy a delicious and generous serving of a licuado at El Taller in Palermo. Taller meaning studio, it indeed has an artsy vibe to it with a large poster of Julio Cortazar, the famous Argentine writer along with splashes of color on the walls and wooden chairs and tables. There is also an upstairs performance space. Licuados range from AR$11 to $17. Food is also served.

El Taller Bar

Serrano 1595
4831 5501
Sunday-Thursday 9am-2am
Friday and Saturday 9am to 5am
The night before a public holiday it remains open until 5am

Photos by Vanessa Hoese

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On Monday you could hear Hugo Chavez recounting this or that rebellion. On Thursday, Evo Morales might be caught outlining the merits of his brand of socialism.  Or over the weekend you might read that one of the Kirchners was embroiled in a new scandal with old colonial powers.

These stories may emerge first before the traveler, as they did for me, and remind us that this is a place where history still lives, challenging conceptions of peace and war.  Perhaps you’ll get past it and let the daily routine take hold.    We can draw a blind eye to greater issues, but this only allows the smaller ones to seep through.   For me, I couldn’t help but notice the things that usually go unnoticed, that are so easily taken for granted.  The doors, the portals to the culture in which I wander, have begun to amaze me.

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