Nuevo tango (new tango) began to develop over twenty years ago with the adoption of different musical elements into the traditional orchestra-based tango music. Hints of jazz and classical were gradually introduced and at the same time dancers began to infuse the traditional dance steps with a combination of new styles including salsa and swing.

Nowadays you can catch all types of milongas in Buenos Aires where people dance to anything from electro tango to Elvis. Acoustic and electronic blend, dancing styles mesh and milongas are held in living rooms however even with new, alternative tango it is still not a case of ‘anything goes’. Before attempting to dance at a milonga make sure you know at least some of the basic steps, as the dance is still taken seriously and tradition prevails that those dancing in public should be good enough to warrant it.

Don’t let this put you off though as alternative tango nights are a great deal of fun and show a different side to this still dynamic dance that has been somewhat homogenized by poorer tourist shows.

On Friday nights in San Telmo, the humble Club La Independencia (Avenida Independencia 572) hosts an alternative tango night, Otros Buenos Aires (www.otrosbuenosaires.com). Here you can expect to see some of the city’s hot young dancers working themselves around the floor to anything from contemporary new tango to old jazz classics. Also recommended for a spot of new tango is Soho Tango (Cabrera 4849), which usually fills up with a young crowd, or La Catedral (Sarmiento 4006) for some alternative nights.

Another way to experience alternative tango if you aren’t quite ready to put on your dancing shoes is through the music. Electro tango is a widening genre and outfits including Gotan Project and Tanghetto are projecting it onto the international music scene. While groups such as Ultratango still regularly play in BA.

For listings of special alternative tango events keep your eye open for the bi-monthly Time Out Buenos Aires magazine and bi-lingual website www.whatsupbuenosaires.com

Whether you want to engage your feet or your ears, alternative tango offers you a different way into the nation’s cultural blood stream.

Image by zabara_tango

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La Puerta Roja is recognized only by its red door, as it is not signposted. It is reminiscent of  a sixth form college common room with poor lighting, shabby walls, worn leather seating and a pool table. Yet still it is a comfortable and cool place to hang out.
It offers a large range of spirits and a small selection of wine and beers. Pizzas and sandwiches are also served. Despite its inconspicuousness it attracts a mixture of locals and travelers. Large crowds from hostels come regularly as part of  “the buenos aires pub crawl” to invade the joint.

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Fernet con Coca is an Argentinian combo, typically 30% Fernet and 70% coke served with ice. It can also be drunk with soda water and is particularly popular in Cordoba and Buenos Aires, whereas in Italy it is drunk neat and does not enjoy the same success.

Fernet con Coca replaces the champagne at weddings and other celebratory events but is not only reserved for special occasions or the elite. In Argentina, it can always be Fernet 0`clock.

Although adored by Argentinians, when it comes to foreigners Fernet is like marmite (a British bread spread made of yeast) “you either love it or hate it”. This is due to its distinctly strong bitter medicinal flavour. It has been likened to Jagermeister.

Fernet is an unattractive dark  brown colour and is made from a mixture of numerous herbs and spices. It has a thickish consistency. However, its precise ingredients still remain the secret of the Fratelli Branca Distillery.

With a 45% alcohol content, if not taken with caution Fernet could lead to a potentially lethal hangover. In small doses it is believed to relieve digestive problems.

In supermarkets a bottle of Fernet-Branca is sold approximately for AR$30 but be warned there are many cheap imitations which do not compare in quality to Fernet-Branca and will leave you worse for wear, more than the real McCoy. Recommended alternative brands are Fernet Martini, Fernet Rama and Ferner Ramazotti. Note that when asking for a Fernet in a bar it usually refers to the Branca brand.

Fernet can be found in any bar or cafe. Why not steer away from the tourist haunts of San Telmo and Palermo and enjoy a refreshing glass of Fernet Con Coca in Cafe Margot? Located in the quiet neigbourhood of Boedo, close to San Telmo, Cafe Margot has a rustic decor with saucisson hanging from the ceiling and wooden seating. It is popular with the locals and there are regular art displays. A large variety of sandwiches are served along with other snacks and main meals. The smoking section is completely separate from the non smoking area so you do not need to fear for your lungs only your liver!

Cafe Margot
Avenida Boedo 857
Boedo

Opening Times: Daily from 7am to 2am

How to Get There: Subte Line E Boedo Station

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Thanks to the number of our visitors who download our ATG Nightlife Pocket Guide every day, we know you all like to party!

In honor of all of you, we are happy to present our online Buenos Aires Nightlife Guidebook. The guidebook features more than 50 bars and clubs to keep you out past sunrise in this city that loves to party.

Our intrepid author, Gwen Kirby, exhausted herself exploring the city’s dives, chic bars, mega clubs and brewpubs. We’ve split up her hard won research into the categories Bars, Clubs, Gay and Lesbian and Tango.

It would be impossible to be all inclusive without going through several guidebook authors. We sought to provide a guide of places with a specific flair to give you the best possible to choose from during your stay in Argentina. Each entry provides a quick description, the direction and contact info to get you there fast.

One last thing before you check out the guidebook to figure out where to start off your night. If you have a suggestion or correction to the nightlife guidebook, contact us! We are happy to receive your comments.

Cheers!!

Emily Crawford
Editor

About us: Argentina’s Travel Guide is an online guidebook and trip planning service. We are a small company focused on providing the best possible personal service to our clients. Argentina’s Travel provides top flight activities, excursions and trip planning to give you the best experience in Argentina. To contact us regarding your trip please email us at reservations@argentinastravel.com.

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Benjamin Biolay will be playing for the first time in Buenos Aires

It’s already common place when talking about French music, or more specifically, the French chanson, to refer to Serge Gainsbourg, the foundational father of that genre and the responsible one for millions of men finally hearing Jane Birkin moaning in “Je t’aime mais non plus.” But in the case of Benjamin Biolay, this cliché is more than justified (though he’s never included people faking orgasms in his songs) and the kid lives up to papa Serge’s standard.

Anything that you expect from a French chanteuse will be fulfilled by this tall, thin, thirty-five-year old: elegance, whispered singing, delicate orchestrations that range from an intimate piano solo to melodramatic strings sections, and lyrics that you don’t understand at all but sound so pretty.

But if you’re not a Francophile have no fear. As his predecessor, Biolay keeps a playfulness in his music that has led him to, for example, produce a debut album entirely based on the life of Rose Kennedy and her family (though we accept that he had more than enough material to sing with the United States’ Royal family history on his behalf).

“Rose Kennedy” was an album that revisited not only the iconic family and the legends that surrounded them — Marilyn Monroe’s voice can be heard in some of the songs — but the whole aura of the post war world, the decline of the black and white golden era portrayed by the sounds of a grand piano.

After his well received first opus in 2002, he released “Negatif” the following year. The double disc had a more folkish sound than the previous one, a sepia tone album that alternated the intimacy of acoustic guitars with old school French pop tunes, which he taps so well. The next year he continued exploring folk music with “Home,” recorded with his then wife Chiara Mastroianni (daughter of Marcello Mastroianni and Catherine Deneuve, two of the ultimate symbols of the heritage of elegance that Biolay represents).

In 2005 he sustained his prolific publishing rhythm with “A l’origine,” a return to the baroque orchestrations (including a children’s choir, something that not everybody can get away with) and the songs from a bon vivant that has a love-hate relationship with Paris, the city where he has lived for fifteen years.

“Trash Yeyé” is his last album, and as he has done before, Biolay delights us with a fine balance between pop and sounds that should belong to a noir film, between broken hearts tales and the stories from the lifestyle of a 21st century dandy.

Benjamin Biolay will be playing at Niceto club, 5510 Niceto Vega St., on April 18th at 9 p.m. and on April 20th at 8 p.m. Tickets are $65 Argentinean pesos ($80 pesos if you want to sit, only valid for Sunday’s gig) and can be purchased through Ticketek or at Niceto, Monday to Friday, from 12 to 6 p.m.

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It’s a Saturday night, you and your friends head to a trendy bar, you order a drink and just before you take your first sip this gorgeous Argentine approaches you from behind, leans in close and whispers something in your ear, “Tus ojos son tan lindos como el mar“ (Translation: your eyes are beautiful like the sea). You pause and before you even have a chance to respond he says, “Que linda que sos! Porque no estas acá con tu novio!?” (Translation: You are so beautiful! Why aren’t you here with your boyfriend?).

Okay, fast forward a few more lines, and well now you’ve just fallen victim to chamuyo, the secret artful language that Argentine men have been using on women for years with the sole purpose of seduction. Chamuyo, modern day version of coquetry, is an important part of Argentine culture and male machismo in which many of the porteños take pride in exercising and perfecting. There’s even a chamuyo class.

For the sake of good humor, I compiled a list of chamuyo examples received both personally and by some of my girlfriends. One little disclaimer: these examples were all translated from Spanish to English so they might not be exactly (literally) correct:

Mr. Arrogant: (opening up his wallet) See what you will be losing if you don’t come home with me tonight?

Mr. Schemer: I design business cards. Hey, in fact why don’t you pass me your contact info and I’ll make you a great one!

Mr. Waste No Time: Do you like quality sex?

Mr. Wannabe Sexy Foreigner: (approaches the woman in English, his supposed “native” language) Hi. My name is Bobby, I’m a foreigner and I speak English.

Mr. Macho: Excuse me you look lost…Let me walk you to your destination.

Mr. Typical Chamuyo: My God! I cannot believe how beautiful you are! With you, I will marry. What beautiful eyes/mouth/butt/hair/legs/top/etc…you have!

Mr. Just Plain Rude: You have beautiful boobs!

Mr. Corny: You better get into the shade fast before you melt, bonbon! Or: Saint Peter must have been distracted because he let an angel escape!

Mr. Bizarre: I want to drink Nesquik with you and play like we are in second grade.

Upon moving to Buenos Aires as a twenty-something-year-old, I was anticipating a ton of things – tango, fabulous wine, scrumptious meat, gorgeous men and lots of Spanish. Little did I know I would be exposed to a whole new language!

Chamuyo can be used on a number of different people, for a number of different reasons, and in a number of different ways. Chamuyo (or verso) is for the most part taken lightly on both ends and is more so about having a good time and initiating conversation. Many men claim that it serves as a great excuse to approach a woman they have been eying all night. Although not generally taken too seriously, chamuyo does tend to have the desired ending effect on both parties involved – the women feel more seductive and sexy, and the men feel like they have conquered.

Now I realize that there are women ‘chamuyeras’ as well, but for consistency’s sake I’m focusing on the chamuyo that men have shot my way. Many men stress the importance of chamuyo amongst the essential elements of seduction. It’s especially interesting (and entertaining!) from a woman’s perspective to see just how far the men will go with their sweet-talking in an almost desperate attempt to “seal the deal,” so to speak.

Chamuyo is a weapon that macho men consider indispensable as one of their tried-and-true flirtation tactics. Before the night has even begun, men get together to eat and throw down a couple of drinks, thus increasing their macho ‘mojo’ and giving them that extra necessary dose of courage. The first few words of chamuyo should be a mixture of tasteful yet a bit racy, and a good chamuyero knows he’s rung in the night when the woman he’s chatting up cannot resist responding with a smile.

It’s easy to get caught in the trap of chamuyo, that warm, fuzzy feeling where all of the sudden the men’s words wrap you up in a tight little ball and you begin to believe that every word, every literal word that he is whispering in your ear is actually true– I mean, come on! I could be the prettiest girl that this man has ever seen in his whole, entire life … right? And I mean, why wouldn’t he want to propose to me on this very dance floor in this dimly lit, smoke-filled hole-in-a-wall bar, I mean, seriously! I’m hot … right?

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The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl was started by Dustin Walsh, Jeremy Bara and Miguel Salas. Their rather appropriate motto is “live the dash.” In other words, as they explain, the dash is what goes on your gravestone before your birth and death. The concept is to enjoy the time you have to its fullest, because when you die, the dash has already been eclipsed.

Though it’s a brand new venture in Buenos Aires, the Buenos Aires Pub Crawl has found success in its simplicity. The partners find the bars that will fit their clientele, offer a controlled social atmosphere, drink discounts, pizza, and most importantly provide a good time. The concept on the business end is simple: Bring customers to bars (10-40 people) in exchange for a round of free shots, happy-hour discounts, and consistency. Once the pub crawl chooses the bars, they come back week-to-week, only rotating the order of bars. For the pub crawler, all you need to worry about is your $50 peso crawl fee, and the rest is in the hands of the organizers.

The first thing I noticed as an honorary crawler for the night is how outwardly friendly people are. From working in bars for so many years, I understand that this has a lot to do with alcohol. However, there truly is a sense of camaraderie with these types of events. No one goes on a pub crawl to be a fly on the wall. We’re all foreigners, mostly new to the city, and looking to be social. A few blue shots and 2 for 1 Fernets later, and you’re practically best friends. Or at least that’s how you feel, and that’s the goal.

So far, the crawl operates three nights a week, Thursday nights in Palermo, and Friday and Saturday nights in San Telmo. I went on the Thursday night crawl. There were about 20 crawlers and seven employees. We went to three bars, and finished the night at a club, or boliche, as they call it here. The bars were cool, and very different from each other.

The first bar, called 8077, was more of a lounge, with art-deco influenced furniture, white linen-covered chairs, and an L-shaped loft. The next bar, Tazz, felt like a hybrid Argentine/American pub. It had high ceilings and a long bar which stretched almost half of the length of the entire place. The theme here was beer, beer, and more beer after the first obligatory free mixed shot. I could see some of the less seasoned drinkers getting a bit tipsy. I met some cool guys from Philly, so I knew I was with a crew who could power on.

Next stop was Sullivan’s Irish Pub. Thankfully, there were tables and chairs. Surprisingly we hadn’t lost anybody. The whole group was intact, and after hitting another bar we powered through to our final destination, Niceto Club. We jumped the queue and headed into one of Palermo’s best clubs, which was packed and steamy as it had been raining heavily for the past hour.

By this time, honestly, I’m surprised half of these kids were still alive. Hence all of the pizza and empanadas before the tour starts. Going to 4 bars in 4 hours may seem like child’s play, but it’s not. It’s important to pace yourself, eat, and cut yourself off if you need to. The craw hosts want you to have a good time, but they are insistent on being somewhat responsible. Once you puke, fight, fall down, you’ve not only wrecked your night, but you just became a 20-person buzz kill. Bottom line, don’t be that guy/girl.

Buenos Aires Pub Crawl
PubCrawlBA.com
Check in regularly as they are constantly expanding their tours and opening up in new neighborhoods. Cheers.

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The conference culminates Saturday, March 8 with a day-long concert at Centro Costa Salguero. The music starts at 3 p.m. and goes on until Sunday morning at 6 a.m. on four different stages. Trance masters Ferry Corsten and Christopher Lawrence headline the concert, which features more than 40 international and local DJs playing house, progressive house, trance, minimal, and other electronica genres.

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It’s Thursday night and you are pining for the weekend but just can’t wait any longer to unwind a bit early…Congo, the very unassuming and mysteriously sexy bar/lounge located in the ever-so-posh Palermo Viejo neighborhood is where it’s at. It’s a great place to catch an after-work drink with friends, mingle with the bustling population of slightly pretentious, good-looking, and flirtatious porteños, or to just chill after a long day and get lost in the undulating rhythm of the music as the energetic and friendly vibe takes you in.

Upon arriving (especially when closer to 2am), expect the entrance line to wrap around the building and be prepared to pay 10 pesos for the gals and 30 pesos for the guys. In exchange for the entrance fee you are given a stack of what, at first glance, appears to be coupons; however, when looked at more closely you will discover that they are indeed the currency required to attain a yummy first drink: Congo money. So for those of you who definitely plan on doing your fair share of drinking while there, your entrance fee seems to pay off as it essentially becomes the equivalent of the value of the Congo “dinero” and therefore (depending on how you look at it) the first couple of drinks are on the house. Quite the creative twist! From there on out the drinks are still a bit on the steeper side, but not when compared to most other Palermo digs and dives.

The modest, inconspicuous entrance to the bar can be misleading as it spills over into a dimly lit, plushly decorated, reserved seating space where brown and beige leather clad couches are generally occupied by sexy and sophisticated thirtysomethings.

As you swirl past the first rooms of the bar you will encounter the back door which carries you out to Congo’s true claim to fame: its beautiful outdoor garden courtyard and bar, where during the hot and sticky summertime nights, everyone who’s anyone seems to gather. The cobble-stoned space is booming with great music, energy, conversation, and flirtation, and the exotic crowd only adds to this venue’s unique and magical atmosphere. Spot-lit outdoor seating lines the perimeter of the picturesque garden and as you sip on your icy and refreshing Bossa Nova or Caiparinha or good ol’ classic Fernet (which are about 14 pesos a pop), and stand elbow-to-elbow with the city’s beautiful people, you realize why Congo ranks as one of the city’s best outdoor drinking spaces.

While Thursday night is “the night” to see and be seen at Congo, the weekend nights are also always buzzing. I went on a Saturday night and had a wonderful time! And even on the busiest of nights, the staff is super friendly and the crowds of people inviting.

If you are planning on going with a group of people and would prefer to sit and have a more intimate experience, I would recommend calling ahead and reserving one of the table spaces in front. It’s a cool and comfortable space, and it’s a great way to escape from the excitement of the crowds that form at the bar and in the outdoor garden. It’s also a great way to subtly sneak a peak and observe those who are just arriving and those that are leaving. Also, don’t miss the popular Tuesday night asado (barbeque) that people wait in line for all evening just to experience. I was told that lines start forming after 1am, so try to get there before the after work rush hour!

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Buenos Aires in the summer is one-of-a-kind. The empty streets breathe tranquility with a good part of the population on vacation at the beach. You can walk comfortably through the city fairs. Sidewalk cafes turn into people watching spots or even tanning salons. Ice cream is that much sweeter during the excessively hot weather. February sales and markdowns are at an all time low in some of our favorite stores and boutiques. Parks turn into the most popular daytime hangouts (which these days is well past 9 pm).

BA’s summer cultural agenda also makes this season stand out on its own. The government of Buenos Aires prepares free outdoor cultural events and entertainments throughout the city during these months. Here is the what, when and where of free dance and theater taking place in BA this weekend.

Popular festivities with 112 murgas (band of street musicians) and 40 corsos (carnival parades) throughout the city.

When:Saturday, February 23 from 7 pm-2 am
Sunday, February 24 from 7 pm-12 am
Visit the Government of Buenos Aires’ website to find a corso near you.

Modern dance and performance featuring over 80 independent artists from Argentina, Chile, Mexico Uruguay and Spain.

Outdoor performance

When:Thursday, February 21 from 5:30-10 pm
Where:Explanada de la Biblioteca Nacional (Avenida las Heras and Aguero)

Performance samples

When:Saturday, February 23 from 6-8 pm and from 8:30-10 pm
Where: Casa de Alfaro, Ituzaigó 557 (San Isidro)

Impro Jam/Closing Fest

When: Sunday, February 24 from 6-8 pm
Where:Centro Cultural El Árbol, Ituzaigó 590 (San Isidro)
Visit the Biblioteca Nacional’s website for additional details.

This is an interactive artistic approach of Mario Benedetti and Ileana Ledesma’s text, directed by Tina Serrano. Every Friday at 7:30 pm, an actor leads the audience, during 50 minutes, through the Garden paths and bringing them face to face with character of poetry.

When: Friday, February 22 at 7:30 pm
Where: Jardín Botánico: Av. Santa Fe 3951
Important: tickets are limited and will be given out half an hour before the show.
Visit the Government of Buenos Aires’ website for additional details.

“La Biblioteca de Babel” is a play in memory of the time when Jorge Luis Borges was an employee at Biblioteca Miguel Cané. With Ingrid Pelicori, Horacio Peña and Pablo Caramelo.

When: Saturday, February 23 at 8 pm
Where: Biblioteca Miguel Cané (Carlos Calvo 4319)
You must arrive one hour before the show.

A unique modern comedy composed of different stories. “A buen entendedor” is open to the general public.

When: February, Fridays and Saturdays at 6:30 pm
Where: Museo Eduardo Sívori (Av. Infanta Isabel 555; in front of the Rosedal of Palermo)
Visit the Museo Eduardo Sívori´s website for additional details.

A Diego Mileo play directed by Mónica Vázquez, with Daniel Ricco (Cornisa), Silvia Berdo (La René) and Jorge Diaco (Rosendo).

When: February, Saturday 13 at 6 pm
Where: Museo Casa de Carlos Gardel (Jean Jaures 735)

Ana Maria Cores presents the monologue “Cuarenta y tantas…”
This is a story of a woman in her forties that goes to see her psychologist. She gets stuck in the elevator on her way there. During that time she remembers different moments of her life, going constantly back and forth. At the end of the play, she will come to a decision that will change her life.

When: Monday, February 25 at 9:30 pm
Where: Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano (Av. Juramento y Cuba – Monumento -)
Visit the Government of Buenos Aires’ website for additional details.

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