Because of a cold rain, we decided to forgo the cross-town amble to the official tourism office, and opted for the much smaller desk next to the bus station. We were greeted by a man who apparently sits at that desk solely as avocation. He called in a guy from the back of the office who told us that we should follow a road around the town’s bordering Lake Lacar for 5 kilometers until we found a campsite called Playa Catritre. He also added that San Carlos de Bariloche was a mere 245 kilometers by foot, which should have been something of a red flag. Happy to have a sense of direction, we filled our packs with butane stove food and set off for the campground. By the time we entered Lanín National Park, night had fallen and a brisk wind whipped up from the lake below. We hiked along a curving footpath, hugging every overlook of the lake that lay some hundreds of feet below. The beams of our headlamps saturated with rain and swirling dirt, the views didn’t distract. Looking over our shoulders, the lights of San Martin receded farther back in to the night. After 4 kilometers of plodding, we turned at a road sign that read Playa Catritre 1, anticipating refuge around every obscured corner. There were a few complications, however: some Private Property signs, a closed gate, and a trail which led nowhere, the last one becoming somewhat of a motif. Rather than ford the closed gate and chance a greeting with an armed and sleep deprived Andean redneck, we decided to huff it back in to San Martin. We found a hostel, drank from a warming flask of Breeders Choice, and retired for the night.

The next morning, sipping a coffee and looking at a map displayed on a wall of the hostel’s breakfast area, it was immediately apparent that we had been led in the complete opposite direction from the little yellow tents that dotted the north side of Lake Lacar’s illustrated likeness. Later that morning we walked in to a tourism bureau, a different one – with a huge wooden sign – and elicited some very promising news.

Driving for an hour and a half on stone-covered roads, our driver pushing out against his windshield with each passing car to ensure that it stayed in one piece, we entered a wilderness as immense as I have ever seen. We were dropped at Puerto Canoa, whose designation as “port” is a little disingenuous. There were two people and boat – one person taking cover from the rain in the park ranger booth and one person preparing the port’s lone boat for a tourist-void tourist cruise of the lake. Low lying clouds obscured the majority of all surrounding mountains, declining us the chance to see the eminence of Volcano Lanín just 4 kilometers away and some 11,000 feet above sea level. A little forlorn in the cold greyness, we hiked along a trail through some misty woods, then down along the lake to a campground.

Coming down the gravel driveway of Camping Raquitue, we were greeted by a lumbering fellow in black rubber boots. He gave us a friendly tour of his land, which was dotted with fire pits and livestock and which ran all the way down to a rocky beach on the lake. We set up the tent and started a fire while listening to some anecdotes from our friend and host Gilberto. As it turns out, Gilberto is a Mapuche Indian who has lived with his wife and son for 4 years on this, the last campground before Lanín National Park. He is also equal part Time Out: Lake Huechulafquen. He told us to knock on one of his neighbor’s doors – a neighbor that happened to be separated by a distance of kilometers – and ask them to prepare us some dinner. We put in the order at about 5, and they told us to come back at 9 for our bife de chorizo and empanadas. We went back later that night to find ourselves alone in the dining area fit for 50 and ate the best meal that I had ever had in a stranger’s house converted to restaurant. The dining area was all windows, giving expansive views of the lake’s waterfront that lay below. Donning our headlights, we trekked back to camp, lit a fire and went to sleep.

That morning I was awoken at 6 AM to the sound of some frighteningly proximate grazing and snorting. As one of our horned neighbors was chomping breakfast literally feet from the tent, it was not lost on me that RJ was covered in a red sleeping bag, bringing to mind some gory bullfighting memories.

After a few hours of uneasy sleep and some dulce de leche sandwiches for breakfast, we set off to hike the trail to the base of Volcano Lanín. Advertised as an 8 hour round trip, we set off at about 11 on the volcanic ash that ran alongside a scenic river up to the volcano. It was a gorgeous day on the lake, and the summits of the surrounding mountains were visible, aside from the eminence of the volcano. With these good tidings, the hike was extremely agreeable; there were rocky streams to cross, and higher up on the trail we hit some steep inclines and finally snow near the base. The view from the volcano’s base was extraordinary; the lake reflecting the clearest blue of an unadulterated sky and beyond that about a dozen Andean peaks were visible on the horizon. Looking up the Volcano, however, there was absolutely no bearing to be gained, as it was entirely cloud covered starting about 100 meters up from us. After failing to sled down the volcano by backpack, we descended the way we came. That night we ate at a nearby lodge that was honestly more expensive than any restaurant that I have eaten at in the last 4 months in Buenos Aires, and it is noteworthy only for that reason. After the milanesa swindling, we headed back to camp content to have experienced a full day of incredible weather and to have set foot on the 11,000 foot giant that presided over the entire region.

The next day’s weather was even more pristine than the previous day’s, and we took Gilberto’s fly-rod and his neighbor’s bait caster down to the lake to try to come face to face with a brown trout. The wind had other plans though, as it sent our bait flying in undesired directions, and we resigned ourselves to bask in the sunshine for the remainder of the morning until being met by a van service early that afternoon. It took us back to Junín de los Andes along with half a dozen fully adorned and be-knifed gauchos. From there, we hopped on a gaucho-less bus scheduled to arrive in Buenos Aires some 20 hours later – notwithstandinging the 2 hours spent waiting for gas on the side of the highway. Traveling in this country is often very much about the journey, and when that journey takes you to a place as uncompromisingly beautiful as Lake Huechulafquen, the entire experience is illuminated by the moments of radiance spent in that exquisite retreat.

• San Martin de Los Andes: Twice the Beauty, Half the Crowds
• El Chaitén Volcano Showing Renewed Signs of Activity
• The Bicycle Diaries of a Day in San Martin de los Andes
• The Seven Lakes Crossing in Patagonia – Take a Road Trip You Can Be Proud Of
• El Gualicho Hostel in Puerto Madryn – Where Sleep is Optional (and Difficult)

Argentina is a land of astounding beauty and open land. There are wild experiences to be had and amazing views to be seen in the second largest country in South America.

But how does a person see as much as possible without missing the smell of the roses, the taste of the wines or the hidden trail heads that lead to natural wonders? A rental car is a helpful tool in seeing and experiencing everything that Argentina has to offer.

This is the first of a three series guide about amazing travel circuits in Argentina. For this segment we are focusing on the Patagonia region.

Our first adventure includes a great five day loop that crosses the Andes twice. It includes four national parks, several volcanoes, hot springs, many lakes and a trip to the ocean. It also ventures into Chile, which makes up 1/3 of Patagonia.

Day 1: The Road of Seven Lakes

The trip begins in Villa La Angostura, a small town located on the northwest corner of Lago Nahuel Huapi, approximately an hour and a half from Bariloche. The journey will take you to San Martin de Los Andes and Junin de Los Andes via the Seven Lakes Road. When departing Villa La Angostura, follow Ruta 231 that eventually leads to the Chilean/Argentine border (you will be returning from this direction). After departing the village, travel seven kilometers on Ruta 231, then turn right on Ruta 234 (the Seven Lakes Road); a dirt road that includes the views of nine lakes, dense, lush forests and majestic mountain scenery. Be sure to take the time and stop at the many viewpoints and lakes during the drive, a requirement to really understand the intensity of the beauty.

After a few hours of driving and after you have once again joined pavement, you will come upon San Martin de los Andes. San Martin is a cute, rustic town. The bustling streets are lined with European architecture. The town is nestled on the east end of Lago Lacar allowing pristine scenery and great trails. Junin is a smaller village located 41 kilometers north of San Martin. People from around the world travel to this small town for the impressive fly fishing. The town is quiet, except for the busy summer tourist season.

Day 2: Over the Andes to Pucón, Chile

Departing from San Martin or Junin, the second day takes us to Pucón, Chile. When leaving Junin, there is an intricately designed park that offers homage to worldly heroes and describes the story of Christ with life-like, chipped glass statues. The Via Christi Park is a Junin treasure.

From Junin follow Ruta 23 to Ruta 60. The road eventually turns to dirt. After meeting the dirt, the spectaculars views of grand Volcán Lanin, 3,776 meters or 12,400 feet, begin to appear. The Parque Nacional Lanin is located on the border of Chile and Argentina and is also where you will encounter the border crossing. Be sure not to bring any fruits or vegetables over this border.

The Paso Mamuil Malal continues on, past Chilean customs to Pucón. Pucón is a quaint, environmentally-friendly town that is a lively tourist hub in the summers. This is a good place to stay an extra day because of the countless outdoor activities.

The smoking volcano Villarica is a great climb and is the home to a small ski area in the winter. On certain nights it glows red from the bubbling lava inside the mountain.

There is also excellent river rafting and kayaking in the area. Great hot springs are located outside of town. There are pools and natural springs offered by the various companies that allow access to the healing water.

Day 3: Pucón to Valdivia on the Pan American

The third stage of the journey takes you from Pucón to Valdivia via Highway 5, the Pan American Highway. This is the most efficient and well-paved road of the trip. The roadway boarders the shores of Lago Villarica, taking you through the larger, less-touristy town of Villarica and then continues westward to the shores of the Pacific Ocean.

At the meeting point of three major waterways — the Valdivia, the Cau Cau and Calle Calle — is the town of Valdivia. Valdivia is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Chile. The area is also known for its tasty fish and pleasant walking trails. We recommend staying the night here and taking in the sights, its beauty is worth the stop.

Day 4: The Hot Springs at Aguas Calientes

On the second to last day of the trip, depart Valdivia in the direction of Puyehue National Park. Rejoin Pan American Highway traveling east towards Osorno, where you will join Ruta 215 leading to Entrelagos. This is a breathtaking drive that winds its way between Lakes Puyehue and Rupanco. There are views of volcanoes Osorno, Casa Blanca and Carran along the way. At the end of the drive you will be greeted by the comforting and healing waters of the Aguas Calientes region, located within the Puyehue National Park. There is an amazing five star hotel, Hotel Puyehue, located at the entrance to the park. The grounds and architecture resemble a royal castle. Day soakers are allowed on the property for US$18; a cheap way to feel like royalty for a day. There are also campsites and cabins in the area.

Day 5: Across the Mountains and Through the Forest

The last day of the journey brings us back to Villa La Angostura. Enjoy the waters of Agua Calientes before heading back via Ruta 215 to the Chilean/Argentine border crossing. The Paso Cardenal Samore finishes the loop off in an intensely beautiful way; the road winds and curves its way through an unpopulated, virgin-forested Andean mountain range.

This five day loop is a fantastic way to experience the beauty of Northern Patagonia. Take your time. Enjoy the experience. Traveling the open landscape on one’s own is what this area is all about.

Shanie Matthews is a freelance writer living permanently in Bariloche, Argentina. She enjoys the pristine beauty of Nahuel Huapi National Park and the incredibly frequent sightings of Condors in the area. You can read about her and her husband’s experiences on their blog, Living in Patagonia.

• The Seven Lakes Crossing in Patagonia – Take a Road Trip You Can Be Proud Of
• Road Tripping Argentina: Mendoza City to the Andean Giants
• El Circuito Chico, Bariloche – The Argentine Bike Ride You Can’t Miss
• Road Tripping Argentina: Salta and Beyond
• Ciclismo Classico Announces New Bike Tours in Argentina

The wind, which kept us awake for most of the night, is shaking the windows so badly that we expect they will explode inwards at any moment. The rain, which has been falling steadily, would no doubt follow. But at 8:30 am, we rush out the door and run to catch the municipal bus to Cerro Cathedral, some 20km west of the city. It’s normally a full bus in the mornings, with throngs of Brazilians, Argentines and Americans making the daily trip to ski, but on this morning the weather has most people staying in bed. Thankfully, they are not blessed with insider knowledge that says if it’s raining and less than 5 degrees in the city, it’s snowing hard on the mountain.

We arrive at the deserted base area, where it is half raining and half snowing and the mountain is hidden by thick fog, so we fear that the weather will be too strong to allow the chairlifts to operate. Our fears are quickly eliminated, when we see the bull wheel turning on the six-person chair that takes people to the mid-mountain. We quickly load the chair, along with one other local skier, and begin our assent into the invisible abyss. We quickly rise out of the rain and find that the snow is tapering off. As we near the top of the lift, something amazing happens; we rise above the fog and have nothing less an empty mountain full of freshly fallen powder.

The local skier smiles as we unload. He motions for us to follow him, which we readily do. It’s Alex’s first day skiing in South America, and he is laughing aloud at how ridiculously lucky he is to arrive to these conditions. I have been here many times, but never seen conditions so perfect or the mountain so empty. To have them both on one day is special.

The local, who becomes our impromptu guide for the day, leads us on a sort of strategic powder tour of the mountain, the kind that takes you from one sweet section to the next, making sure to take into account lift openings, avalanche closures and scoring runs on all the best places before they become tracked. It’s the same system that many of us use back at our local mountains but, at home, competition and egos are too big to share it even with your closest friends, let alone a complete stranger. Argentina is so friendly sometimes!

Run after run of perfect snow, we work our way from right to left, continuing to chase our local friend through tree runs, open bowls and exhilarating chutes and couloirs. He really knows this mountain, but as we are sticking mostly to two person chairlifts, we still have not exchanged a single word. The day continues and we shift around the mountain before standing atop one final run, to the far skier’s left, called La Palmera.

He stops at the top of a steep ridge. We ski up beside him, stop to see views of breaking skies out across the majestic Lago Nahuel Huapi, and take a silent moment to enjoy it all. He speaks first, “This one is the best, enjoy!” and drops into the best run of the day, before we even get a chance to reply.
We give chase, snow funneling up and over our heads on every turn to the bottom.

As we slide past our new friend at the base area, we simply say, “Beers are on us!” and motion for him to follow. He readily agrees. Now there will be plenty of time to talk about this magic day.

• Cristo el Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) is Also in Patagonia
• Avalanche Awareness Classes Begin in Bariloche
• Arrival of Snow Makes Some in Chubut Look Past Volcano to Ski Season
• 3 Climbers Rescued from Aconcagua
• Heavy Snow Blocks Tunnel between Argentina and Chile

I must admit: I have never been much of a hiker. My usual trek entails 40 minutes of prep time (both mental and logistical), 45 minutes of walking, and then a strong desire (often expressed verbally) to descend to base camp and seek out the nearest place to get a foot massage and a cider. So, I actually surprised myself when I agreed to go to Bariloche, the land of mountains and hiking, with my sister in mid-May. Little did we know that the fall weather would produce rain for an entire week, and all my mental and logistical preparations would be rendered unnecessary. Ultimately, we were able to discover plenty of enjoyable activities for hikers and non-hikers alike in Patagonia’s Lake District.

You should not avoid Bariloche in the autumn. Although the weather is unpredictable, the brilliance of the foliage and the drama of the Patagonia’s peaks put Vermont to shame. At this time of year, the weather is crisp; neither too cold nor marked by repressive heat associated with the summer months. Prices are lower (falling between the summer trekking and winter skiing high seasons), and there are more locals in the towns.

While we were eager to appreciate the benefits of autumn, we were not willing to suffer outside in the incessant downpour (surprising, given that we are Oregonians and accustomed to the rain). The first thing we decided to do was rent a car. There are great car rental deals in Bariloche, especially in the low season. We bargained VW Polo down from well over ARG$500 to $380 for three days (driving a maximum of 800 km). Our success could be attributed to the fact that we are girls, that we spoke Spanish, and that we did our research ahead of time, but I think that taking advantage of at least one of these criteria should reduce the rental price.

We rented from Correntoso car rental (just off of Avenida Mitre), but Liz Rent-A-Car and A-One (both located in the center of town) also had competitive deals. You must be 21 years old to drive, have a valid driver’s license, passport, and credit card. Prices include full insurance costs and taxes.

We decided to follow the famous Ruta de Siete Lagos (“seven lakes route”) from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes. The drive is spectacular (although clouds on our first day obscured our view), and we completed the full drive to San Martín in a matter of hours. In the rain, be aware of the 50km stretch of unpaved road; we had to weave through stones, ford mini-rivers, and avoid mud-hydroplaning. Don’t be discouraged: the road was not dangerous, just slow-moving.

We chose to stay the night in San Martín; which, although it is beautifully situated on Lago Lácar, is somewhat disappointing in weather not suited for outdoor activity. In low season much of the town seems to shut down- restaurants were closed, hotels out of season, and craft markets non-existent. Moreover, driving in San Martín is surprisingly frustrating. I would stop in town for lunch but avoid longer stays in the rainy season.

One activity we could justify due to the rain was a spa session in Villa Angostura. The lakeside town has been deemed an expensive luxury destination, and is therefore often snubbed by backpackers (although our hostel, the Hostel Angostura, gave us a private room with heated floors for just 40 pesos). Surprisingly, given the town’s reputation, we were able to easily locate economical services for our day of pampering. We first toured the breathtaking Hotel Sol Arrayán (http://www.solarrayan.com), a subtle seven story luxury resort overlooking the lake which was just inaugurated in January. Spa treatments were similar in cost to US prices, and housed in a state-of-the-art facility. We were unable to get appointments without a 24 hour advanced booking, but we settled on Hostería Las Nieves (http://www.lasnieves.com), a cozy bed and breakfast with amiable hosts that offered massages for ARG$60 per hour.

Another local tradition that is satisfying in any weather is the consumption of sinfully delicious local products- notably the Patagonian chocolate and beer. Mamushka chocolates are the local behemoth, and we went back three times to have their dark-chocolate covered orange peels. There is also a local chocolate museum that we failed to visit, but looked like a promising rainy-day activity. During our time, we took full advantage of the handful of local pubs and factories serving artisanal beers. We discovered two on the road to Bariloche’s local circuito chico and indulged in our recently discovered obsession for cerveza frambuesa (raspberry beer). Our favorite bar was Blest, which has a great selection of home-brewed beers, and invites you to immortalize your thoughts on beer coasters that line the walls.

Finally, we drove to have tea at the famous Llao Llao. The hotel resides on a peninsula with stunning views over the lake, and is one of the most prestigious hotels in Argentina. We dried off in front of the massive fireplace, and enjoyed a pot of Argentina’s fabulous Tealosophy tea. At ARG$16 for a small pot the drink is not cheap, but much more economical than the ARG$50 high tea served at 4PM.

While the weather on our trip was disappointing, we were pleased that we had carved out an alternate itinerary rather than escaping north to sunny Mendoza like many of our fellow travelers. It allowed us to appreciate the moments of sun and the fleeting vistas through the clouds much more than we might have otherwise. And who knows: maybe the frustration of not being able to hike will allow me to fully appreciate the activity next time I strap on my boots and head to the trail

• Bariloche Looks to Brazil to Increase Tourism
• White Spring in Bariloche Keeps Visitors Skiing
• San Martin de Los Andes: Twice the Beauty, Half the Crowds
• Avalanche Awareness Classes Begin in Bariloche
• New Family Excursion in Bariloche to Valle Encantado

Bear Grylls, the British host, author, and star of Discovery Channel’s Man vs. Wild spends his time traveling the world in search of beautiful locations, new adventures, and extreme experiences in nature that will challenge his renowned survival techniques. For two weeks in a row he took us to Patagonia and gave us a taste of the true ruggedness that is manifested throughout the southern Argentine lands. Both the beauty, and ruggedness is anything but understated in his Patagonian adventures.

Week two was just as exciting as he experienced an all new part of Patagonia, and not just any part, but one of the most highly recommended destinations from us here at Argentina’s Travel Guide. The infamous El Chaltén makes our list of Argentina’s Top 10 Destinations. Mountain hungry travelers with their eye on adventure head to this destination with intentions of trekking themselves sore. El Chaltén is the trekking capital of Argentina with the biggest challenge being Cerro Fitz Roy.

El Chaltén has also been known as the “smoking mountain” because it is typically covered with a large cloud that looms over the peaks up above. The smoking mountain was once considered sacred to the indigenous tribes of Argentina. In Bear’s one hour episode, he doesn’t have quite enough time to take us to the peak, but he does drop in on Patagonia with an impressive entrance. The first sight of the snow packed Andes Mountains we get is from the birds eye view as he flies above in a plane. The Andean Patagonia is best described as cold, glacial, icy, and last but not least, beautiful. Bear has plenty of time to contemplate this freezing climate as he soars down below with nothing but himself and his parachute. Just moments after he shows us the beautiful views he jumps overboard and skydives down below.

Skydiving into this part of Patagonia would surely be exciting, but most travelers get to Los Glaciares National Park by plane or bus. There are a few scattered towns in this area where many head when beginning their trekking adventures. El Chaltén is not only a mountain but also the name of a small town, a very remote village at the foot of the mountains. High demand for increased accessibility to these trekking adventures has also been met by the addition of an International Airport in El Calafate. Bear doesn’t take us anywhere near civilization in his adventures, but if you don’t have the convenience of traveling with a National Geographic camera crew and full staff, it may be helpful to know more about the other options.

While the accessibility to the mountain may not be as isolated as it once was, the mountain climb itself remains extremely difficult. There are various degrees of hikes that are available to both the day-hikers and the serious mountaineers out there. But a successful summit to the top is more commonly heard of at Mount Everest. El Chaltén is only half the size of Himalayan giants but it requires a very professional level of climbing due to the recurring stretches of granite faces and the inclement weather. Needless to say it is an amazingly beautiful experience regardless of the degree of difficulty in hike. From November – February, during Argentina’s summer months, the mountain is full of trekkers of all levels and experience.

Bear’s and his crew don’t take us up the mountain, but his Patagonia adventures in episode 2 are a great introduction to this breath-taking part of the country and will undoubtedly inspire you to discover more about the true spirit of Patagonia and plan a trekking adventure of your own.

• Bear Grylls of Man vs. Wild Ventures into Patagonia
• Patagonia a Trekker’s Dream, Says Travel Blogger
• Controversial Simpsons Episode not Aired in Argentina
• Patagonia Cuisine: As Delightful as its Scenery and its Adventures
• Villa Traful, This Andean Gem is More Than Just a Little Fishing Village

I’m happy to report that today we rolled out a whole new destination guide, this time, to the Lake District in Patagonia.  It’s a great place to get all your questions about the Lake District answered (like, what to do while you’re there?).  It’s a great resource help you plan your trip.  If you want to know where to stay, how to get there, and where to eat, we have you covered.  Oh, and the beautiful picture is El Lago Espejo, in case you were wondering.

• Launching Our “Photo of the Week” Feature
• The Seven Lakes Crossing in Patagonia – Take a Road Trip You Can Be Proud Of
• Photo of the Week – Looks like Sweden
• San Martin de Los Andes: Twice the Beauty, Half the Crowds
• Villa Traful, This Andean Gem is More Than Just a Little Fishing Village

The Southern Right Whale: beautiful, enormous, astonishing, and definitely not shy. When you travel to Peninsula Valdes you will witness just what I mean aboard one of the daily whale watching tour boats.

The whales seem to appreciate the tourism just as much as we appreciate visiting them. All on board and full of emotion, our boat of tourists headed out into the Atlantic waters. Whales, as we learned from the well-informed guides, are highly vocal and rely on a variety of different sounds for underwater communication and navigation. Among the chatty sounds of the calls, clicks, buzzes, and water blowing that they produce, the sound of a boat motor is distinct. The other sounds may be used to communicate about where to find food, or when its time to change locations; but when they hear the boat motor, it can only mean one thing…it’s show time.

Within minutes there were huge black shadows appearing in the water surrounding us. The whales approached like submarines coming to the surface and they stuck around to get the attention and star treatment they were looking for. Some would swim along side our boat, others splashed around in the near distance, and one that was especially excited to see us, put on a performance of jumps and splashes.

The crowd responded with approval. Camera flashes lighting up the sea and a boat full of oohing and aahing was just what the whales were wanting. It was an incredible experience and an insight into nature at its best in Patagonia.

Of course, like all whales, there comes a time when they must migrate to find fresher food and a better climate. So a visit to Puerto Madryn is best scheduled from May to December when they are still present. From Puerto Madryn there is an unlimited supply of tourist agencies that will gladly reserve a spot for you on their Peninsula Valdes tours. However, if wanting to experience just the whales, one can also take a bus to Puerto Piramides, crash a night or two in the hostel there, and go on whale watching boat ride from the small beach town. If you make it to Patagonia, make sure you don’t miss the whales.

• Puerto Madryn Tourism and Whale-Watching in the Valdes Peninsula
• Great New Video Shows Killer Whale Hunting Sea Lions Up Close
• Whale Commission to Meet in Santiago, Chile
• Whales: Bigger Business Alive in Latin America
• Musician Javier Calamaro Welcomes the Whales with Song

At 3am, when my bus finally pulled into the El Calafate bus terminal, I was too tired to think straight, but thankfully I didn’t have to. A friendly man from Hostel del Glaciar Libertador greeted me as I stepped off the bus, loaded up my bags in a hostel vehicle, and before I knew it he had escorted me and a few other backpackers to the front steps of our hostel. It didn’t take long to get into a room and soon after into a bed.

I slept like a baby and into the following morning, when I had to force open my heavy squinty lids. But when I finally did take a look around, I was amused to see what a wonderful hostel I had stumbled into without even noticing. For starters, I was in a cozy bed, by myself in a room with four bunks. There were heated floors and large wooden storage closets, and the shower/bathroom was private and spotless.

I was so comfy that for a second I considered sleeping in, but it didn’t take long for my adrenaline to start pumping in anticipation of everything that lay beyond the hostel doors, and that idea flew right out the window.

There is really only one reason that travelers to Argentina come to El Calafate (and it’s not for the night life). It’s for the Perito Moreno Glacier. Its ice cloak coves 600,000 hectares, the glacial front is 5km long, and it shoots up to a height of over 60 meters above water. All that heavy ice produces a never ending show of fractures and detachments of huge sheets of ice that tumble down into the water below with a mighty roar. It’s amazing, and that morning I was one of the eager tourists waiting to see it.

After hearing the hostel staffers’ description, I immediately booked an excursion and my excitement and little-kid-enthusiasm kicked into high gear. So I started a game of 20 questions with the staffer to see just how well-informed he was about Perito Moreno related topics. Needles to say, he passed with flying colors.

[youtube:http://youtube.com/watch?v=BDHayMS33MA]

The excursion I took was nothing short of amazing, even better than the stories I had heard back in Hostel del Libertador. We traveled through the Patagonia valley and marveled at the roaming guanacos and pink flamingos until we arrived at the panoramic view of the frozen natural wonder. I was able to see it from the front, the back, the balcony view, the boat tour, and even right beneath my feet as I went on a mini trek on top of the glacier. I couldn’t get enough.

After all that excitement I had worked up an appetite, and was ready to do some cookin’. I headed to the grocery store with a few fellow travelers I had bonded with on my excursion, and we made our way up to the kitchen. Cooking space is somewhat limited, but I can’t imagine a better way to wait your turn than by sipping Argentine vino and hanging out with new friends on the hostel’s bean bags.

There is a large open room with a homey cabin-like ambiance and many picnic tables, high vaulted wooden ceilings, and televisions, where everyone gathered while eating. After we finished cooking our meal we joined the rest of the troops and unwound for the night.

Making the trek to Perito Moreno is perfectly complemented by a stay in one of Argentina’s coziest hostel accommodations, Hostel del Libertador.

• Perito Moreno Glacier, a Must-see Tour in Patagonia
• Adventure Tour Company Offers New Argentina Package
• Trekking on El Perito Moreno Glacier – An Unforgettable Experience
• El Calafate – A Beautiful (and Fast-Growing) Little Tourist Town
• Patagonia Cuisine: As Delightful as its Scenery and its Adventures

Sitting aboard my cozy LAN flight from Buenos Aires, I enjoyed some of Argentina’s famous chocolates, a nice cup of tea and anxiously awaited our arrival into Bariloche. With each turn of the engine my inner outdoorsman began to emerge and I could feel us approaching those beautiful Andes Mountains. When the wheels finally touched the runway I rushed out of the plane, eager to catch that first sight of the Andes and Lake Nahuel Huapi bordering Bariloche. One glance was inspiration enough to quickly get to a hostel, drop off my bags, and head out into the rugged outdoors.

My hostel recommendation turned out to be much better than convenient, comfortable, and clean as I had previously heard; it turned out to be nothing short of AMAZING! Hostel 1004 sits on the tenth floor of the highest building in Bariloche and is a tease to those eager to get outside. The views are incredible. My camera was out within seconds snapping away at the lake side views, and my nose was pressed up against the glass. (That was before I realized there was an outdoor balcony). The friendly staff must have noticed my kid in a candy store reaction and pointed me toward Cerro Campanario for the best views of the region.

From peak to peak within the Andes Mountains I’ve found that every lookout brings a new experience and a new memory; however there is one specifically that has captured notable attention from the masses. It doesn’t take an expert to realize the beauty of the views from the peak of Cerro Campanario, but if an expert opinion is what you want, how about this one? At one point National Geographic named Cerro Campanario one of the “Top 10 Views of the World.” After hearing about this wonder I packed a sandwich and headed out the door.

Cerro Campanario is 17 km outside of town, a little further that I felt like walking. But the immaculate bus system of Argentina once again came to my rescue, as did the conveniently placed bus stop at the base of the building in which Hostel 1004 sits. Buses numbered 10, 20, and 110 all travel down Avenida Ezequiel Bustillo, the only road heading west out of Bariloche en route to my destination, and in no time I had waved down a colectivo, and I was on my way. Av. Bustillo hugs the lakeside and provides beautiful scenery that served as foreshadowing to what lay ahead. 17 km later I buzzed the bell for my stop and stepped off the bus in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. However once the bus rolled on my attention was directed to the opposite side of the street where there was a sign posted at the base of the mountain.

To be able to appreciate this view I knew that I would first need to get to the top of the mountain. There are a few different paths to follow up that were relatively short climbs but a little steep. However, I decided to push my Easy Button and use the Aerosilla Cerro Campanario…aka chairlift. Ten pesos for a one way ticket to the top, or twenty pesos to get up and down. I enjoyed my relaxed climb to the top from the seat of my cozy chair, although I found myself struggling to keep myself faced forward as I continued to rise higher and higher. With each tree that passed below my feet, the views continued to get better and better until I finally reached the top.

A friendly man was there to greet me and escorted me off the appropriate side of the chair lift. The moment my feet hit the ground I rushed off to the nearest lookout point, reaching for my camera. Fantastic panoramas, fresh mountain air, and breathtaking scenery had me feeling as if I was in my own Oz. The mesmerizing mountains were surrounded in blue with the wide open sky up top and the huge lake waters of Nahuel Huapi and Perito Moreno down below. I could see for miles in any direction until my line of sight was stopped by another one of Mother Nature’s beautiful mountain peaks: Cerro Otto, Cerro Lopez, Cerro Goye, Cerro Catedral, and Cerro Capilla to name a few. I saw Hotel Llao Llao stretched across the Llao Llao Peninsula below, the enchanting Isla Victoria, and looking back to the east, I saw the town of Bariloche. It didn’t take long at all to understand exactly why Cerro Campanario has received so much attention.

After spending some time at each lookout, and once my high had worn off enough to allow me to sit, I made my way into the little café, the only man-made structure there. I found a table right next to a window, ordered a cup of tea, and sat back to soak it all in. It was a wonderful way to spend my first day in Bariloche.

I highly recommend this adventure to anyone that will be in the area. There’s good reason that National Geographic named this look-out spot one of the Top 10 Views of the World.”Any sight deserving that title can not accurately be described in words or pictures. It’s an all-consuming, must-be-there, see-for-yourself spectacle that you will be grateful you took the time to see.

• El Circuito Chico, Bariloche – The Argentine Bike Ride You Can’t Miss
• La Morada Hostel – Who Else Wants a Secluded Mountain Getaway?
• Hostel 1004 in Bariloche – Penthouse Views at Hostel Prices
• Paragliding in Bariloche, Argentina
• The Seven Lakes Crossing in Patagonia – Take a Road Trip You Can Be Proud Of

Welcome to Monica Due, a restaurant owned and hosted by Paola and Mario, a couple from Bologna that set foot in these magnificent land only three years ago, for the delight of locals and tourists alike. Before coming to Argentina they lived in Costa Rica where they owned the famous Monica Restaurant Italiano. Monica is the name of their daughter who now lives in the USA. Just when she thought their parents were retiring, they announced their surprise move to Patagonia. Monica, her husband, and their grandson visited them in San Martin de los Andes earlier this year.

After a full day of outdoors activities, whether it is winter skiing, or summer fishing, hiking or biking, hardly anything will be more comforting than home-style gourmet pasta. At Monica Due, homemade pasta and quality service are trademarks. From the moment you arrive, Mario will make you feel at home, help your select a nice Argentinean wine from the cellar, and will take your order from the excellent Menu available. Paola will herself prepare your order to perfection. You will find a great variety of pastas including lasagna alla Bolognese, ravioli stuffed with cheese and eggplant, fettuccine with wild mushrooms or lamb stew sauce, or traditional fettuccine Parmigiana, among others. If you really want to treat yourself to the best of the best, try the Polenta or the Beef Stew. And don’t forget to round out your meal with the delicious Tiramisu, chocolate mousse or Strudel.

Even if all you want is to go out to a restaurant for a nice meal, trust me, your experience will be that of having been invited to the house of the best cook and host in Italy. Italians have different ways of doing pasta, depending on the region and cultural traditions, but the homemade pasta that enjoys uncontested recognition as Italy’s finest is that of Emilia-Romagna and mostly of Bologna, the birth place of tagliatelle, cappeletti, tortelloni, tortelli and lasagna. Paola, your host and pasta hand-maker, is from Bologna and at Monica Due you will enjoy true “Pasta Italiana”. Buon appetito!

It is always better to make a reservation because Monica Due is a relatively small restaurant that tends to get crowded during high season. The prices are very reasonable and the quality is excellent.

• The Story of Gnocchi Day in Argentina
• Flyfishing in Patagonia, an Experience that Feeds the Soul
• Ku Restaurant in San Martin de los Andes, a True Argentine Asado Experience
• San Martin de Los Andes: Twice the Beauty, Half the Crowds
• Naturata, a Great Vegetarian Restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina. Really.