About three weeks ago, I came to the conclusion that I had to leave the city.  It was beginning to suffocate me.  I chronically suffer from cabin fever, and this time, I craved endless land and beautiful landscapes. I drew up a rough itinerary that would take me through the mountainous provinces of Tucumán, Salta and Jujuy. My plan was to keep moving on up—in terms of both direction and altitude.  And, I was really looking forward to tasting the famous empanadas salteñas.

I happily noticed that northern Argentina certainly offers a gastronomic exoticism that is missed in Buenos Aires.  While pizza, pasta and asado still abound, the cuisine reflects native cultural and geographic influences, and comprises a greater variety of condiments, produce and meats.  Onions, garlic, chili peppers, cumin and pepper spice up the dishes.  Llama, goat, and lamb meat populate the menus.  And cane sugar, cayote, cuaresmilla, squash and cheese dominate the desserts.  Quinoa, goat cheese and corn also make surprising appearances.  Dishes are hot, stew-y and juicy.  And they have names like locro, humita, and tamal.  To my unimaginable glee, homemade hot sauce accompanies the plates—an analogous icing on the cake. 

I arrived in Tucumán after a 16-hour bus ride from the hectic Retiro bus station.  A small city with a dappling of colonial mansions, the capital San Miguel de Tucumán served as a good starting point in my journey.  Here, I first learned of the region’s affinity for goat cheese, which I munched on in various instances throughout my trip.  After a leisurely stroll that led me through the quaint and charming Paseo de la Independencia, I found myself at the parrilla and brewery, A La Vuelta de la Historia.  I had my first ever goat cheese empanada, piping hot from the oven and oozing with stringy, melted cheese.  My cold and fresh-squeezed kiwi smoothie made the perfect complement, and I sipped away as my waiter, Alejandro Piazzano, carefully explained the process of brewing the house Künstner beer.  (All the working machinery was interpolated within the dining premises, and I had been sitting next to a fermentation tank—Step 4 in the process.)  Several locals had also extolled the empanadas at the tiny eatery, El Portal, but it had closed for Independence Day.  

On my stops through Tucumán on my way to Salta—Mollar, Tafí del Valle, Amaicha del Valle, and the Ruinas de Quilmes—I noted other differences with respect to the empanadas.  The beef empanadas in Tucumán, unlike their counterparts in Buenos Aires, are filled with juicy chunks of chopped beef as opposed to ground beef, and include paprika, onions, chives, and sliced hard boiled eggs.  You are also given the option of mild or spicy.  With a penchant for spice, (as in almost all aspects of my life), I would order the latter, and lob additional hot sauce on top before each bite.  I personally find the contrast in temperature (hot vs. lukewarm), consistency (solid vs. saucy) and ingredients (meat and bread vs. vegetable) between the empanada and the chili sauce quite appetizing.  I also observed the distinct tucumán style of eating empanadas.  After biting off one tip, the locals would squeeze a few drops of lime juice into the empanada before each mouthful, creating a moister, tangier flavor.  

Locro, a thick, hearty stew usually served only on Patriot’s Day on May 25th, constitutes another regular custom in the north.  With a name stemming from the Inca’s Quechua language and roots predating Spanish colonialism, locro is considered the most typical Argentine dish.  Ingredients include corn (ground and whole grain), white beans, squash, pumpkin, onion, various beef pieces including tripe, chorizo, bacon and pieces of hard boiled egg.  Hot chili sauce is usually drizzled on top.  Locro is especially good during the cold winter nights along the Andes mountain range as it fills and warms you up quite nicely.  

As for a sweet end to tie up the meal, I tasted dulce de cuaresmilla, miniature peaches in a very sweet syrup.  Also sold in many artesanal food stands, they make a great souvenir. 

In between making my culinary discoveries in Tucumán, I enjoyed a private tour of the historic Jockey Club building in the city, hiked up the pre-Incan ruins of Quilmes, and relished a spontaneous motorcycle ride around Amaicha (along with free pizza and beer that the kiosco owner offered me) before ending up back on a bus to continue my travels upwards.  

Next stop: Cafayate in the Salta province…

A La Vuelta de la Historia

Crisóstomo Alvarez 456, San Miguel de Tucumán

381 497 5597

 

El Portal 

Calle 24 de Septiembre 351, San Miguel de Tucumán

381 421 5367

http://www.empanadastucumanas.com/

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I came across the tea room Barruel by chance, before heading into a shopping expedition in Palermo Soho one afternoon. My thoughts were interrupted by something equally as shiny and pretty: an impeccable life-sized dollhouse evoking old-time British luxury. The daintiness of this tea room—the glistening china sets, white garden chairs and plush sofas—beckoned me through the glass windows.

Curious and enchanted, I wanted to see more. A stack of built-in shelves right by the staircase accommodated an antique radio stuck in between books that looked just as old. A few steps further in, a white coffee table stood, surrounded by a white leather sofette and upholstered armchairs with brass finishing. A vase of fresh lilies rested atop a mahogany commode, and towards the back, a glass cabinet showcased pristine tea sets. A large crystal chandelier cast a warm orange glow over the scene. A cozy and harmonious mixing and matching of décor.

Sufficiently tantalized, I chose a table for myself, and ordered the “Tea Yorkshire” for one. The sheer amount of food overwhelmed me as I was barraged with a succession of scones and toast, tuna and grilled chicken finger sandwiches, and cakes and tarts. The order could certainly satisfy a sweet tooth for four people! And at $AR45, it would make a more economical alternative. Besides, I preferred the simple toast and scones with my Earl Grey tea.

As European as some elements may be, Barruel has daily food specials that betray its Argentine roots: milanesa (breaded and fried meat), bife de costilla (T-bone steak), asado de tira (ribs), and hamburger with ham and cheese (Argentines love their ham and cheese on pizza, omelettes, empanadas, etc.).

El Último Beso, also in Palermo Viejo (of which Palermo Soho is a sub-division), extends a similar vibe: a real-life dollhouse carved out of someone’s romantic imagination and flawlessly executed interior design. I appreciated every detail, down to the red rose petals strewn inside a bath tub filled with water and a stone fountain with a statue of a voluptuous robed woman in the garden. Interestingly, one of the salons serves as a colorful shop selling bohemian-style apparel and jewelry.

The tea menu states that it is “inspired by the romanticism that history’s greatest loves instill,” matching each tea with a love story and a kiss from film classics. I gently flipped through each perfectly crafted page: Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman from Casablanca symbolized a Moroccan blend of green tea, mint and roses from Fez while Robert Redford and Demi Moore from Indecent Proposal was a spicy blend of Chinese herbs and Jamaican pepper that “leaves the transgressive taste in the mouth.” A fan of white tea, I preferred the “Gone with the Wind” with Clark Gable and Vivien Leigh, a Chinese Kekecha variety with touches of jasmine.

The food also was creatively concocted (though to a lesser degree): the succulent mustard lomo (tenderloin steak) came with mashed potatoes and sautéed shitake and bacon; the sweetbreads flambéed in syrup with a brie cheese croquette; and a salad of Cornish hen with honey and a plum compote. I have also yet to try the lemon grass creme brulee with mint syrup. According to the menu, all the vegetables have been picked from a natural organic garden.

Despite the precious cuteness of both tea houses, the most popular session of afternoon tea in Buenos Aires occurs everyday at L´Orangerie at the Alvear Palace Hotel. Befitting its name, the place certainly transports you into a palatial fantasy replete with costumed musicians in powdered wigs and puffy dresses while playing a set program of music by Vivaldi, Bach and Mozart and white-gloved wait staff pouring endless glasses of champagne. One can easily forget that the tea is protagonist here. The $AR75 prix fixe menu comprises a cannonade of food that comes to your royal self course after course. Like Barruel, the menu possesses an essentially Argentine twist to the British custom. Finger sandwiches of avocado and “salsa golf” (a blend of ketchup and mayonnaise); hearts of palm (a very popular ingredient here in various dishes); and of course, baked beef, which was my favorite. I also liked the smoked venison in olive bread with arugula and truffled butter.

Tea time in Buenos Aires serves a delightful culmination of cultural and stylistic facets: a meticulously exquisite interior design, a British custom, and staple Argentine dishes. All in all, these three tea rooms most certainly propose a confectionary treat for both the eyes and the tongue.

Barruel
Uriarte 1830, Palermo Soho
Tel: 4777- 0877
www.barruel.com.ar

El Último Beso
Nicaragua 4880, Palermo Viejo
Tel: 4832-7711
www.elultimobeso.com.ar

L’Orangerie (Alvear Palace Hotel)
Alvear, Av. 1891, Recoleta
Tel: 4808-2100 ext.1643

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My days started out with deliciously cold coconut water from the whole coconut. Afternoons were sweetened by fresh passion fruit juice. As I beach-hopped through Rio de Janeiro, Buzios, Cabo Frio and Ihla Grande I was enchanted by the culinary exoticism of words I hadn’t heard before. I had trouble understanding even the English-version menus that were dressed with words such as catupiry, guaraná or moqueca.

Strolling through the multitude of fresh produce stands and vendors at the open fruit and vegetables market in Ipanema, I was lost awash the mix of Portuguese and culinary vernacular, and the sights, sounds and smells of the strangest and funniest-looking goods. I found myself in a world of persimmon, coconut, guava, cassava, passion fruit, star fruit, acerola and fruta do conde.

This curious offering found its way to the juice bars that prevailed throughout my travels. Açaí (pronounced ah-SIGH-ee) was most prominent with huge banners sprinkling the sidewalks of Rio de Janeiro and the dirt roads of Ihla Grande. Served as a brilliant reddish-purple iced smoothie in a little plastic cup, açaí is nature’s super food, packed full of antioxidants, amino acids and essential fatty acids and harvested in the palm trees of Brazil. (As a side note, I met a fellow traveler who had caught the now-popular dengue fever and was drinking açaí everyday to recuperate.) The sweet, sour and nutritious chlorophyll-and-orange juice was another one of my favorites.

Brazilian cuisine in and around Rio also specializes in fish and seafood which comes whole–fried or roasted–or in soups and stews, with a side of rice and black beans. A seafood fanatic, I was on a constant search for Bahian food from the northeast of the country. With ties to colonial Brazil, Bahian cuisine evolved from plantation cooks who improvised on African, Indian, and traditional Portuguese dishes with local ingredients.

Typical dishes include vatapá (creamy paste of bread, shrimp, coconut milk, palm oil and nuts), caruru (a stew of okra, onion, shrimp, nuts and palm oil), acarajé (a deep-fried ball of white beans) and moqueca (slow-cooked stew of seafood, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and chili pepper). I enjoyed a taste of each dish, and more, at a buffet-style lunch at Siri Mole e Cia in Copacabana after a trek up Corcovado Mountain to see Christ the Redeemer earlier that day.

In Rio, feijoada (a black bean, pork and beef stew) is popular especially as a Wednesday or Saturday lunch. Prepared over a slow fire in a thick clay pot, feijoada comes with sides of rice, couve mineira (chopped and stir-fried collard greens), farofa (roasted cassava flour), and hot pepper sauce (a lovely addition to my collection of hot sauces, it consists of whole red malagueta chiles steeped in palm oil or olive oil for a month or so). The Adega da Velha in the bay area serves up some of the best feijoada in town.

Though hard to choose, I had one of my most memorable dining experiences at the beach-side Nannai Bar in Buzios, a vacation hot spot for many wealthy Argentines. The sun was setting over the nearly secluded Ferradura Beach; the waves were lapping lightly against the shore; and I had gleefully ordered a dozen oysters on the half-shell. As I sat sipping my cold Itaipava beer, I saw a fisherman drag a net full of oysters into the bar, and moments later, heard shucking noises. The waiter came by after a few minutes with a plate full of freshly-caught-and-shucked oysters! They certainly weren’t the prettiest oysters I’ve seen, but, boy, were they tasty. Mild and slightly sweet they were adorned only with a few drops of squeezed lemon slices and a couple dabs of hot sauce.

Aside from the traditional Brazilian cuisine, I also made several stops at the popular and trendy sushi chain Koni, which serves up only cones or hand rolls of tuna, salmon and shrimp with ingenious press-down bottles for soy sauce with wasabi or teriyaki sauce. For other afternoon and evening snacking during pit stops between beaches, I hopped into the many bakeries aligning Rio’s streets for fried codfish balls, ricotta and spinach balls, pastels of meat or cheese and cheesy bread.

Having now stepped out of the golden sun and translucent turquoise waters of Brazil and into the crackling leaves that signal the onset of autumn in Buenos Aires, I have an incredible longing for carioca food, music and style. But I can actually find authentic flavors of Brazil here! The nightclub Maluco Beleza emanates with the sounds of samba and zouk, a new-found favorite of mine. And I can revisit the tastes of feijoada and caipirinhas at Me Leva Brasil and Maria Fulô in Palermo.

Brazilian Restaurants in Buenos Aires

Maluco Beleza
Sarmiento 1728
Congreso
4372 1737
http://www.malucobeleza.com.ar/

Me Leva Brasil
Costa Rica 4488
Palermo
4832 4290
www.melevabrasil.com.ar

Maria Fulô
Cabrera 5065
4831 0103
Palermo
http://www.mariafuloresto.com.ar/

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My best friend Jessica Bartolini and I used to enjoy the $4.95 lunch menus at the Indian restaurant row on 6th St. and 2nd Ave on Manhattan’s Lower East Side whenever we had a half day in high school. During my five-year vegetarian phase (quite the shocker), we both made a habit of ordering the vegetable korma for its creamy coconut and cardamom goodness. I later moved onto the chicken korma, half wishing that the Indian chefs would just go ahead and desecrate the cow and serve up some beef korma.

Unsurprisingly, my first order at Bangalore Pub & Curry House during my second week in Argentina was the beef madras, which was annotated with three chili peppers on the menu. Catering to the mild Argentine palate, the dish would’ve needed some more chili peppers to merit 3 peppers on the menus in New York. Thankfully, Bangalore offers a house hot sauce-a bottle of spicy and flavorful red chili oil.

Jessica and I reunited here in Buenos Aires for a week in February, and, as habit dies hard, we went to two of the four most popular Indian restaurants here: Bangalore and Katmandú. The menus were in Spanish, and the general offering of dishes differed a bit, offering an exciting variation to our old routine.

Sitting by the bar at the Brit-style Bangalore, we chatted and dined as in old times. She ordered the pumpkin curry, as I had predicted. Like the Argentines, she possesses a penchant for pumpkin, and gleefully reveled in its popularity here, enjoying plates of pumpkin ravioli and pumpkin tart. Her pumpkin curry was indeed excellent! I, on the other hand, ordered my favorite Indian dish in Buenos Aires, the murgh saag. The thick consistency of the curry sauce, the tenderness of the chicken, the ratio of spinach-to-meat, the size of the portion, and, most importantly, the combination of spices all come to a perfect culmination at Bangalore. We left a couple hours later happy and full. Furthermore, both dishes, priced at about $35AR, were served with rice and/or naan.

Thanks for this yummy saag aloo to frankfarm.

A couple days later at Katmandú, which is known for being more authentic, we shelled out a bit more dough, which included a separate order of basmati rice at $12AR. But the portions were bigger, and that always makes me happy. I ordered the chicken do piaz, which consisted of chicken pieces cooked in a curry sauce of onion, tomato, cardamom and chili peppers. Served in the customary copper-toned steel bowl that was brimming with a steaming hot and vibrant red sauce with swirls of white yogurt, it looked better than it tasted, to be honest. Jessica had the aloo dum chutney walla, or potatoes stuffed with home-made cheese and cooked in a mint and coriander sauce. I preferred hers to mine, but I think I need to taste a few more dishes there. I can, however, conclusively say that Katmandú’s capacity for spiciness is authentically Indian.

Jessica returned to NY a few days later to leave me to trolley through Buenos Aires’ realm of Indian cuisine alone. I have tried the vegetarian spot, Krishna, which offers a cheaper, cozier and meatless alternatives, and the more high-end eatery befitting its Barrio Norte address, Tandoor, where, like Katmandú, you need to order basmati rice separately for $9AR, but unlike Katmandú, the portions are small.

Thanks to chotda for this photo.

Making just a couple more call-outs to Bangalore, I also recommend the green chicken korma which boasts a milder flavoring of green chili, cilantro and mint, lime peel and yogurt. On the other hand, I learned to avoid the misnamed butter chicken, which was not buttery at all, instead consisting of chicken pieces in a slop of what tasted like canned tomato sauce. That same night, I ordered a second entrée of the green chicken korma to ensure satisfaction of my tongue and stomach.

I have yet to try Katmandú’s sister restaurant, Mumbai, which is in the midst of moving to Palermo Hollywood, and opening its doors to the eager public in two weeks. It marks yet another culinary adventure for me. In the meantime, I know I can count on Bangalore’s murgh saag to satisfy my craving for rice mixed with tender chicken and hot savory brown curry. And I look forward to continuing on a painstaking process of trial-and-error at Katmandú before discovering a few more curries that make me go kookoo.

Katmandú
Avenida Córdoba 3547
Palermo Viejo

Bangalore (cash only)
Humboldt 1416
Palermo Hollywood

Krishna (cash only)
Malabia 1833
Palermo Soho

Tandoor
Laprida 1293
Barrio Norte

Mumbai
Opening on Honduras 5684
Palermo Hollywood

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As a transplanted New Yorker spoiled by the cornucopia of culinary cuisines that used to call out to me from every block of Queens and Manhattan, I felt like something was missing after months of devouring juicy steaks, homemade pastas and colorful pizzas in Buenos Aires.

After all, variety is the spice of life, and my newly relocated palate needed some shocks of spice and foreign flavors.

Recalling other deliciously spicy dishes I’ve had in the past and encouraged by new friends from Peru, I decided to try out a few of the city’s Peruvian restaurants.

I was pleasantly surprised by what I found. Oh, how my tongue delighted in the hot, steaming soups and stews and the gastronomic goodness of seafood! Mussels and squid and shrimp, galore!

Thanks for this picture to Fabiano Goldoni

My favorite place is a no-frills restaurant called Contigo Perú on Calle Echeverría near the train tracks of the Barrancas of Belgrano station. A quiet, unassuming restaurant from the front, it actually seats about 200 guests.

Having become accustomed to Argentine cuisine, I at first felt a little lost as I perused the menu that featured parihuela (a seafood soup), jalea (an assortment of various foods), chairo (a beef soup) and aguadito de pollo (a light chicken soup).

But by studying the accompanying photos in the menu and peeping at the plates of those nearby, I knew I was in for a gustatory treat.

The cubiertos of the pre-meal bread sealed the deal. The bread rolls came with a small side of a pale yellow innocuous-looking sauce, which I spread on my roll. I bit into it and immediately my taste buds came alive to the spicy flavor of garlic and guacatai, which is kindred to cilantro and is known for its medicinal powers.

One of the popular dishes here is the chupe de camarones. Upon being seated, I saw the waiters making several trips from the kitchen, carrying a huge bowl of this red shrimp chowder with hot steam trailing after them. I was intrigued and ordered it. About a quarter-hour later, I had before me a tremendous bowl of fiery red broth with tomato and chili pastes, swirls of light cream and squid, mussels and shrimp bobbing on the surface. To top it all off was a slightly poached egg.

For the less adventurous, I highly recommend the green noodles with chicken, a simple, delicious dish. The spaghetti comes in a pea-green sauce of spinach, basil and garlic, and the chicken is roasted to tender, juicy perfection.

Other popular dishes include pescado a lo macho, a grilled fish in a cream of squid, shrimp and mussels; a Peruvian-style paella; and an Asian-inspired arroz chaufa con mariscos, a stir-fried rice with seafood in soy sauce.

Granted that this is indeed a Peruvian restaurant, you can find ceviches of mixed seafood, flounder and shrimp; crisp pork, squid and fish rinds; and tamales which you can down with a fizzy pineapple cider or the traditional pisco sour.

To top off my meal, I ordered mazamorra morada for dessert, a “purple cornmeal mush” according to a verbatim reading off the menu. In less figurative wording, it is actually a gelatinous fruit compote of purple corn, pieces of pineapple, whole quinces or membrillos, and sprinkles of cinnamon. Never having tried a quince before, I was surprised by its resemblance to the prune.

The quince is quite popular here, and you can find pies and cakes of membrillo at the local pastry shops. Unsurprisingly, almost all of the quinces in the North American specialty markets are imported from Argentina.

If you want to explore some tasty treats in addition to the traditional Argentine fare of lomo or bife de chorizo, Contigo Perú (and Peruvian cuisine in general) is a gustatory jewel. Just make sure to brace yourself before you polish off that yellow sauce . . .

Contigo Perú

Echeverría 1627
Belgrano

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Caroline Shin

A city girl by nature, I left New York City, the glam apple of my eye and ❤ to savor the flavors of Buenos Aires, the “Paris of South America.” With the seasons and longitude degrees inverted, I flowed from fall to spring in October 2007, and I’m still indulging in the Porteño night life that extends beyond sunrise. As well as satisfying my addiction for new shoes.

But still, nothing makes me happier than eating, and I’m relishing the delightful bife de chorizo (sirloin strip steak), buñuelos de acelga (fried chard fritters), empanadas de pollo (chicken dumplings) and helados caseros de dulce de leche (home-made dulce de leche ice cream).

However, I have a voracious appetite known to exceed that of men twice my size and a greedy palate that suffers from cabin fever after eating too much of the same thing. I was also brought up on good ol’ home-cooked Korean food, prepared by my talented mom and grandma everyday. And so, my quest for gustatory variety and spice hasn’t stopped at Argentine fare. I’ve discovered restaurants that serve up the best kimchi chigae of Korea, murgh saag of India, croque madame of France, and ceviche of Peru, among others.

Happily munching away in Buenos Aires (and professionally, no less!) I have vague memories of bidding adios to my job in financial public relations & investor relations and the anxiety of choosing between law school or business school after graduating from Brown. Right now, I’m just living la dulce vida here in Buenos Aires, and am as content as a fat cat as I share my culinary notes with you. i ❤ ba.

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