The Southern Right Whale: beautiful, enormous, astonishing, and definitely not shy. When you travel to Peninsula Valdes you will witness just what I mean aboard one of the daily whale watching tour boats.

The whales seem to appreciate the tourism just as much as we appreciate visiting them. All on board and full of emotion, our boat of tourists headed out into the Atlantic waters. Whales, as we learned from the well-informed guides, are highly vocal and rely on a variety of different sounds for underwater communication and navigation. Among the chatty sounds of the calls, clicks, buzzes, and water blowing that they produce, the sound of a boat motor is distinct. The other sounds may be used to communicate about where to find food, or when its time to change locations; but when they hear the boat motor, it can only mean one thing…it’s show time.

Within minutes there were huge black shadows appearing in the water surrounding us. The whales approached like submarines coming to the surface and they stuck around to get the attention and star treatment they were looking for. Some would swim along side our boat, others splashed around in the near distance, and one that was especially excited to see us, put on a performance of jumps and splashes.

The crowd responded with approval. Camera flashes lighting up the sea and a boat full of oohing and aahing was just what the whales were wanting. It was an incredible experience and an insight into nature at its best in Patagonia.

Of course, like all whales, there comes a time when they must migrate to find fresher food and a better climate. So a visit to Puerto Madryn is best scheduled from May to December when they are still present. From Puerto Madryn there is an unlimited supply of tourist agencies that will gladly reserve a spot for you on their Peninsula Valdes tours. However, if wanting to experience just the whales, one can also take a bus to Puerto Piramides, crash a night or two in the hostel there, and go on whale watching boat ride from the small beach town. If you make it to Patagonia, make sure you don’t miss the whales.

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Puerto Pirámides – the gateway to the whales. From Puerto Madryn the typical tourist will arrive in this town, be rounded up in a tour group and taken out to sea for an incredible whale watching escapade. At the end of the day they may have seen their whales but missed the town all together. What a shame, it’s a small community but one worth getting to know.

The ambiance of the town changes like night and day with the tourist season. From June to November Puerto Pirámides is an upbeat exciting town and for good reason – the Southern Right Whale. Buses full of people arrive every day, the restaurants are full, and the souvenirs go like gold. The red faced tourists disembarking from each ship take home incredible pictures and memories to share with their loved ones.

However, don’t be fooled into thinking that if you hit this area of the country in the whale off-season that this town has nothing to offer. An adventurous spirit could explore this town and its surroundings for days on end.

Let’s start in the most obvious spot, the beach. The soft sandy beaches are beautiful, comfortable, and in the off-season very spacious. Lounging on the beach during the day is always a great way to relax, but don’t forget about those early mornings. I can’t imagine a better place to watch a sunrise.

Bahía Ballenas Hostel is just a few minutes walk from the seaside so make sure you set your alarm. A trail of giants rocks off to the right side of the beach stretch out into the water and form a private walkway to the water. From these stones you can watch the sun rise above the ocean. The pink, purple, blue, and orange hues paint the sky and the calm morning waters with incredible reflections. Eventually the steadily rising sun peaks over the sea line and burns through the layers of colors to mark the new the day. On a perfect morning the only others witnessing this wonder will be those who came with you, and perhaps the whales that are also getting an early start to greet the morning’s sun.

Later on in the day, on the opposite side of the beach you will see another gathering of rocks and maybe a gathering of people as well. During low tide the rocks retain all kinds of natural sea creatures and crustaceans. Sea shell collecting is a common activity in these areas but be careful not to confuse one of those crabs crawling around for another souvenir or home decoration or you may get snipped. The Puerto Pirámides restaurant owners will occasionally be attempting to catch the day’s special with their big fishing nets from this very spot.

Even when the whales are not present there are plenty of other forms of wildlife. Snorkeling and scuba diving are popular sports in this area and a scuba diving ‘baptism’ is offered for beginners. One of the many tourist companies in town will tell you about their package offerings and will take you either under the water or around the Peninsula.

Peninsula Valdes is a site of global significance for the conservation of marine mammals and birds. At Punta Norte you will see families of penguins and sea lions. At Punta Cantor the sluggish elephant seals provide the entertainment. And at the southern beaches of Punta Delgada you have a combination of everything. Orcas can be seen within the right time of year and while driving from one beach scene to the next you will also witness the Patagonia specific wildlife such as guanacos, maras, ñandu and all kinds of unique birds.

Don’t make the same mistake as the others who miss out on all this town has to offer. Puerto Pirámides may not be know for it’s raving night life or five star restaurants; but if it is a glimpse into the wildlife, tranquility, and true character of Patagonia you are looking for, this could be just your place.

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The marine world surrounding Puerto Madryn is a remarkable and valuable feature to the community. To experience all that the wildlife has to offer, tourists can choose between one of the many businesses in town that provide sporty outdoor opportunities, such as scuba diving, Peninsula Valdez excursions, windsurfing, and kayaking. However, to gain a more educational and historical perspective on the marine ecosystems you have to head south toward El EcoCentro (the EcoCenter) located right outside of town.

It is a good walk from town but a very feasible one. More than likely you will forget about the time and distance while strolling along the beach and wading through the ocean water. There is only one paved road heading south and it will lead you to the front door. (Or if you prefer, a quick 10 peso cab ride is always an option.) You can’t miss the beautifully constructed light-house style building that sits on the cliffs and overlooks the sea.

Prepare to be educated! You could spend hours walking around and learning about the interconnections of the marine world through the various exhibits. You can listen to videos regarding the whales, sea lions, penguins and other wildlife. You can stop by the library and read up on the flora and fauna. You can even sit in on a speech given by one of the staffers. And once you have had your fill of marine life information there are plenty of other options as well.

One of the first things you will notice upon entering the building are the immaculate windows that stretch from one end to the next. Just beyond those windows is a multi level deck with various viewing areas. They will lead you out onto the cliffs and eventually down into the water. In front of these cliffs is a small group of docks where the scuba divers provide entertainment as they head down for their baptism into the deep blue sea.

Back inside, there is a windy staircase that leads to the top of the tower and provides interesting art work along the way. However, once you enter the sanctuary at the top, the only artwork necessary is the natural views. The white walls and white furniture are beautifully contrasted with the blue water and sky in the distance and will take your breath away. My advice would be to head up there first while everyone else is distracted by the exhibits and enjoy the views in a peaceful solitude, or perhaps with one other special person you are traveling with.

When you finally break yourself away from the tower, make sure you spend some time in two specific exhibits that you can’t miss: the pool of invertebrates full of starfish and anemones, and the room with the singing whales. In the whale room there are a set of pillows strategically placed on top of the sea rocks scattered along the floor. The lights are dimmed and the room is quiet. Once you are situated and relaxed the enchanting melodies of the whales will begin and you’ll feel as if you are in the middle of the ocean surrounded by the massive sea creatures. It is a mesmerizing experience.

After indulging in all of the beauty and information El Ecocentro has to offer, you may feel like indulging in some food as well. Nothing will restore your energy like the specialties in the restaurant. Full meals, snacks, drinks, and delicious alfajores are available and can be comfortably enjoyed in the dining area, on the outdoor decks, or while walking through the gift shop and contemplating over various souvenir options.

There are always more discoveries to be made about the mysteries and marvels of the Patagonian sea, but after your visit to this venue you will feel much more educated and appreciative of the marine environment that sits right beyond El EcoCentro‘s doors.

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