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A city is often defined by its local art and music scene (or lack there of). It is the heart and pulse of a community – the, as they say in Argentina, “after office,” or what people do for fun. New York City, Paris, Tokyo, Montreal, Bangkok – an urban center can be defined by its dimension of revelry – each of these has a vibrant music and art scene. Buenos Aires also has a thriving live music scene, though I’ve discovered that it is not easy to find.

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBSkLfVp2fQ]

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Much of the nightlife went underground, after a tragic fire at Cromagnon night club killed 194 teenagers in 2004. The evening news here goes after boliches (nightclubs) that are purported to serve underage youth, and there are few publications that list dance parties or live bands.

The answer usually lies in word of mouth, but any random night at the neighborhood centro cultural can prove fruitful. A flyer at a bar listing a party Saturday night at the centro cultural in Parque Patricios (also home to Caseros prison) led straight to a goldmine in local hip hop, reggae, and cumbia talent.

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Sursystem puts on events bimonthly with DJ’s, live acts, projections, and merchandise booths. And as a bonus, when the YMCA becomes the discotheque, there’s no mean bouncer or velvet rope.

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